The reason I started this wine blog was that I wanted to include only wines that touch my heart and soul. Having left Norway at the age of 18, I have been lucky to have lived in many different countries and visited a myriad of places I have a close relationship to and have fallen in love with. Spain is such a place, and also one that I’m still attached to by way of family. Growing up my family owned a place in Benidorm on Costa del Sol, where we spent every summer. Later on, my brother married a Spanish woman from Madrid, and although they live in London, they have a house on Mallorca which they visit frequently. My niece and nephew are half Spanish, so naturally, I count half my family being from Spain. I’ve always had a soft spot for the cuisine and the wine in this country, and really love how passionate the Spanish people are about both.
Bodegas Ondarre is part of the Bodegas Olarra Group, a well known name in Rioja. The winery is located in Viana, a historic town outside of Logrono (La Rioja). They age their wines in new American or French oak casks, and the winery renew their barrels frequently to maintain this particular character of their wines (information obtained from the Bodegas Olarra website). The Ursa Maior is a blend of 75% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha and 15% Mazuelo. Tempranillo is Spain’s most famous grapes, and it has several names depending upon where you are in Spain. In the other renown region of Spain, Ribera del Duero, it goes by Tinto Fino, in Toro it is called Tinta de Toro, while in La Mancha it goes by Cencibel. In Portgual you have Tinta Roriz or Arragonez.
The Bodegas Ondarre Vineyard:
While I typically am not a fan of oak as a predominant flavor in wines, in Rioja I expect it and in fact, almost crave it. There is something romantic about it, and certain emotions awaken within me that no other wine can manage. American oak and Tempranillo go together like no other combination – the wine gets its character from long aging in the barrel. The new trend in Rioja is however to use French barrels, and shorter aging, emphasizing new fruit flavors and freshness. There are also young, un-oaked, juicy Riojas coming out more frequently, so it seems the older versions may be endangered. The flavor profile of Tempranillo is lush, supple fruit from strawberries, plums and raspberries to blackberries and black cherries. Tannins are generally soft, and acidity can vary – anything from low to crisp. I read somewhere that the flavor of Tempranillo is somewhere in between Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, although not sure that is completely accurate.
Today, Tempranillo is grown all over the world – while I still favor the wines from Spain and Portugal from this variety, I’ve seen some impressive examples from South America and Washington state.
Garnacha, the world’s most widely planted red variety, is a Mediterranean grape that thrives in warm climates so perfect for inland Spain where it gets blazing hot in the summer. It produces wines with high alcohol and a full body, hence perfect in a blended wine such as Rioja. Garnacha’s flavor profile can include blackcurrants, black cherries, pepper, coffee, spices, tar and black olives. Young Garnacha can even have some strawberry and raspberry flavors. With age ,these fade into leathery, nutty notes with some dried fruits like figs.
Mazuelo is the Rioja name for Carignan. It brings acidity, tannin and color to the Rioja blend. Carignan is another grape that thrives in a hot climate, and is in decline. It required very low yields and old vines to produce wines of quality.
The Ursa Maior Reserva is aged for 16 months in American and French oak casks (Bordeaux), and racked four times. The fermentation of each grape variety takes place separately with maceration for 16-18 days.
Tasting Notes:
With a ruby core fading into a garnet rim, this wine has the classic, intense aromas of vanilla, oak, and black fruit. I found it more medium bodied on the palate, with both red and black fruits such as cherries and blackberries , with the oak and vanilla flavors blending nicely in with the tannins and alcohol . Licorice, black pepper and tobacco are also noticeable – this is definitely a wine that provides lots of savory flavors, with a pleasant smooth finish.
Conclusion: Silky Rioja with fresh fruit flavors and structural tannins that provides meaty flavors expected in a Rioja. A good quality entry level Rioja suitable for every day drinking.
Rating: 3 1/2 out of 5
Food pairing: Lighter meat dishes (skirt steak, game) as well as tapas like mushrooms, Manchego cheese and albondigas (meatballs).
Retail: Around $15
SOILFUL WINES 