Unlike many other wine “geeks” out there, I never really got obsessed with the wines from Bordeaux. One of the major reasons is probably because I have actually never been to the region (and am somewhat ashamed to admit this, as this is probably among the first wine trips one should make) and thus never got a personal feel for them. Secondly, I haven’t tasted enough older vintages to fully appreciate what these wines can do, but for some reason I don’t have the urge to that often. Thirdly, I tend to favor the wines from Burgundy where I can feel and taste the passion of the vignerons, they seem to be more personally involved with not just their wines, but every single vine, leaf and berry on their plot. In Bordeaux it seems to be all about the commerce, and winemakers doing anything to make wines that will achieve that perfect (and silly)100 number score. That said, I know I am grossly generalizing and it always irritates me when I don’t “get” a certain region or wine, so I am always eager to explore.
I found a wine in my cellar the other day I purchased a while back, and figured I would give it a go. The Chateau Moulin Saint-Georges Saint-Emilion Grand Crus 2005 is made by the Vauthier Family of the Chateau Ausone fame. Chateau Ausone is one of only four wines (along with Chateau Angelus, Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau Pavie) with the Premier Grand Cru Classe ranking in the Classification of Saint-Emilion wine. Located close to the town of St. Emilion, there are about 7 ha of planted vineyards with about 66% Merlot and the remaining 34% is a combination of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
When looking at Bordeaux wine, one must distinguish between the wines of the Left Bank, where Cabernet Sauvignon rules, and includes wines of Graves and Pessac-Leognan, and those of the Right Bank, where Merlot is king, followed by Cabernet Franc. The terroir and the styles of the wines are different. Largely speaking, the wines of the Left Bank tend to be authoritative, capable of great elegance and longevity, while the Right Bank wines tends to be juicier, more approachable in their youth and a bit spicier. While the aforementioned general descriptions are about red wines, Bordeaux also produces white wines, both dry and sweet. The best come from south and southeast of Bordeaux (Sauternes and Barsac both make world class sweet wines from botrytized grapes), varying in intensity and seriousness.
The 2005 vintage was superb across the board, where the wines are delicious young and will also age really well. My pick, the Chateau Moulin St-Georges 2005, was made from 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, and has the same soil as Chateau Ausone, clay over limestone. The vines are on average 25 years old, and planted at a density of 5,500 vines per hectare. After harvest (all grapes are harvested by hand), the fermentation is conducted in temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks with a month-long cuvaison. After malolactic fermentation, the wine is aged for up to 18 months in 100% new French oak. The wine is produced by the same team as Chateau Ausone and with the same care. Production is very limited here, only 3000 cases made.
Tasting Notes:
Dark inky color, I get intense black fruit on the nose of black cherries and blackberries, as well as some developing, meaty aromas along with a Port-like scent. Black pepper, earthy tones, violet and licorice follows. In the mouth, the wine is medium bodied, with a good tannic grip, but while obvious and present, they blend in well with the dark fruit. Some spiciness on the palate with the same black fruit that I detected on the nose, in addition to some red cherries, cassis, plums and star anise. Great structure with long length.
Conclusion: Very elegant and pretty wine that I feel, while fine to drink right now, still needs a few years to develop a bit more complexity and come into its full capacity. While I wasn’t overwhelmed by the wine, I see great potential and it spiked my curiosity enough to continue my search for a Bordeaux wine that will change my prejudice mind, for sure! Drink from 2015.
Price: Average $60
Rating: 3.5/5
Food Pairing: Beef Wellington, steak, braised short ribs, roast duck, cassoulet, rack of lamb, grilled sausage w/peppers.
SOILFUL WINES 