Last week I was in Norway visiting family, and I’m always curious to pick up the current wine trends in my home country. Norwegians are creatures of habit, they move in packs and tend to drink and eat and do exactly the same as their neighbors and friends. Every time I’m at home, there is a new brand or wine that is the “hot thing of the moment”, and this time I noticed everyone referring to and drinking Baron de Ley Rioja. Spanish wines are very popular in Norway when choosing reds, while Chablis seems to be the preferred choice for whites.
Baron de Ley is a single estate with 160 ha of vineyards located in Rioja Baja founded in 1985 and located in an old monastery that has been restored. The winery focuses on high quality Reserva and Gran Reserva Riojas, and is based on the Médoc chateau concept, where grapes are sourced exclusively from the property’s vineyards. In 1997 it became a public company and is the same as El Coto de Rioja. They also produce white wines, but their reds are the ones to try, and they produce wines of remarkable value.
On my way back to the States, I noticed that Baron de Ley had a line of varietal wines lined up in the duty free section at the airport, which peaked my interest. This collection was created to re-discover and celebrate the indigenous grape varieties of the Rioja region. My eyes landed on the Baron de Ley Graciano 2010. Graciano is one of the grapes used to make Rioja but rare to see as a varietal wine. Which is a shame, as it’s by far the most interesting grape in Rioja. Producing spicy and aromatic wines with an intense color and flavor, it is also a fickle vine to grow, which is perhaps why we don’t see it that often. Sometimes likened to Petit Verdot in flavor and structure, it has high acidity but less tannins than Tempranillo, and age very well. When aged, it develops great fragrance and finesse, and is thus used in Rioja Gran Reservas. Graciano likes cool, mild and damp climates, and is seldom found outside Rioja. Other names used for the grape an be Monastrell, Cendron, and in France, Morrastel and Tanat Gris.
100% Graciano, the grapes in this wine are sourced from Baron de Ley’s Los Almendros estate in Rioja Baja, located 1500 ft above sea level, and enjoys a more Mediterranean influence than what is normal for the region. Rioja is divided into three regions: Rioja Alta, where 43% of the vineyards are located, Rioja Baja (37%) and Rioja Alavesa (20%). Alta and Alavesa are located at a higher altitude and has more of an Atlantic influence with less hot spells during the summer, while Baja has a more Mediterranean climate with higher temperatures and less rainfall.
Yields are low at 40-45 hl/ha, the wine is fermented in stainless steel and goes through malolactic fermentation for 15 days in 225 liter oak casks. The wine is then aged in American oak casks for 15 months.
Tasting Notes:
Deep purple in color, the wine has intense bright aromas of blackcurrants, cassis, licorice, pomegranate and vanilla, as well as some violet, clove and earthy tones. Medium bodied on the palate, it is quite tart with high acidity, and flavors of red cherries, blackcurrants, tobacco and a bit of oak. Earthy finish with long length and a good tannic grip.
Conclusion: This is quite complex and a very interesting wine with good acidity, that can help keep the wine and will probably evolve for quite some time. Refreshing fruit flavors are well integrated with tannins, alcohol and acidity, making it a balanced, layered and very good quality wine. Great steal!
Food Pairing: Manchego, game, cured meats and duck confit.
Retail price: Around $16
Baron de Ley is distributed by Frederick Wildman in the U.S.
SOILFUL WINES 